STATION:

                Before designing your garb, you need to decide what type of role you wish to play within the household.  Guards, Chefs, and a Nobleman’s Attendant (to name a few) would be members of the Upper Household and would wear nicer clothing than a Lower Servant such as a Dishwasher.  (All guild members are welcome to make both Upper Household and Lower Servant garb so that they may switch roles as they wish or at need.)

UPPER HOUSEHOLD:

• Shirt- Of white or ivory cotton or linen, it should tie or lace closed and have a simple standing collar.
• Hosen- Of cotton, linen, wool, or leather, they should be full length and closely fitted.  Heavy dancer’s tights or cotton leggings work nicely.  If you choose to make them, make sure the fabric has some give to it.  (stretches a bit)
• Long Jerkin- Of cotton, linen, wool, or leather, this is a semi-fitted (not too tight) sleeveless doublet which ends about mid-thigh. It may button, lace, or hook closed, but please keep metal to a minimum.
• Hat- A black or dark colored flat cap.  No ostrich or peacock feather decorations, but other feathers work nicely.
• Shoes- Leather boots or loafers can be close to ideal, as are cowboy boots if you remove the leg portion.

LOWER SERVANT:

• Shirt- Of white or ivory cotton or linen, it should tie or lace closed and have a simple standing collar.
• Breeches- Of cotton, linen, or wool, they should be no longer than the bottom of the knee and gathered at knee and waist and have a triangular fly flap.
• Jerkin- Of cotton, linen, wool, or leather, this is a loosely fitted, sleeveless doublet. It may button, lace, or hook closed, but please keep metal to a minimum.
• Hat- A white or ivory muffin cap
• Shoes- Leather boots or loafers can be close to ideal and certain types of sandals are also OK
• Hose- Knee high knit cotton socks

UPPER HOUSEHOLD:

• Chemise- Of white or ivory cotton or linen, it should be high necked and MUST have long sleeves.  Upper household chemises may have a very small amount of lace or embroidery (with GM approval).
• Kirtle- Of linen,  it should be custom fitted and lace up the back. Either round or square necked is fine, but it should not cut under the breasts. Skirts should be of matching linen, set into the bodice using stacked box pleats, with a guard or stripes of contrasting material near the hem.
• Overgown- of heavier material with contrasting sleeves
• Overpartlet- designed to attach with pins to the kirtle this is a fun alternate accessory.
  
• Shoes- Leather loafers can be good, certain types of sandals are also OK
• Hose- Knee high knit cotton socks. (Yes, they do show)
• Hat- A white caul, or muffin cap.  Upper Household may also wear a flat cap with a white caul under it.  (Make sure the hat is of materials appropriate to your station.)
• Choosing fabrics with woven in patterns or textures is preferable for this rank and can add a fun visual while still complying with sumptuary statutes of the period. Check fabric selections with your GM for approval.
  

LOWER SERVANT:

• Chemise- Of white or ivory cotton or linen, it should be low necked and MUST have long sleeves.  Lower Servant chemises should not have any lace or embroidery on them.
• Kirtle- Of linen, it should lace up the front and be custom fitted.Either round or square necked is fine. Skirts should be of matching linen, set into the bodice using stacked box pleats, with a guard or stripes of contrasting material near the hem.The skirt should be split up the front and have about 6" of extra material which can either hook on the opposite side or be pulled back to reveal the underskirt.
• Underskirt- Of cotton or linen, it should a contrasting color so that when your over gown is left open or the over skirt is kirtled up for working the under skirt shows well.
• Shoes- Leather loafers can be good, some types of sandals are also OK
• Hose- Knee high knit cotton socks (Yes, they do show)
• Hat- a white caul, or muffin cap. a wide brimmed straw hat with the caul under neath is also good.